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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.